Saturday, April 13, 2013
We have moved!
We now have the Blog on our website at: http://www.awesomepawsacademy.com/paws4reflection-blog.html...Join us there!
Tuesday, December 11, 2012
The "Guilty" Look...Fact or Fiction?
When owners say "He KNOWS he did something wrong...he looks (acts) guilty!" we tend to ask them to perform an experiment the next time they come home (which is usually when the dog "acts guilty" of something If you want to know more about this exact experiemnt...please ask! But...is it really so? Or is it entirely possible that OUR behavior is making THEIR behavior change? Dogs see things in pictures and read us so much faster than we could ever read them. That's not to say there aren't times when they might truly BE guilty, but we tend to give the dog the benefit of the doubt in that if they TRULY knew something was "wrong" they would NOT do it. It is OUR job to truly TEACH them right from wrong.
So, a good picture and mini-explanation can be found on our Facebook page on 12/11/12:
https://www.facebook.com/AwesomePaws
As always...Happy Training!
So, a good picture and mini-explanation can be found on our Facebook page on 12/11/12:
https://www.facebook.com/AwesomePaws
As always...Happy Training!
Monday, November 5, 2012
Weight Management Programs & Healthy Weight Loss
This is an article Julie Westphal (Certified Veterinary Technician, Certified Pet Nutrition Consultant, and Purina Certified Weight Coach) wrote for Belle City Veterinary Hospital for their Weight Management Program. We wanted to share this for this month's topic!
Weight Management in Dogs…for Life.
Importance of a Healthy Weight:
A healthy weight is essential to your dog to help combat many diseases. As few as 3 extra pounds on your dog (or even 1 pound on a toy breed) can cause added pressure to joints and internal organs, as well as accelerate many diseases, such as: high blood pressure, respiratory and heart disease, osteoarthritis, Type 2 Diabetes, and even some forms of abdominal cancer. Before any diet is started, however, we want to perform a physical examination and rule out any potential health issues first. Hypothyroidism and hyperadrenocorticism (Cushing’s disease) are unfortunately common enemies to weight loss. If there is an underlying physical problem, a diet alone will be unsuccessful and could even prove detrimental. Shedding unnecessary weight can add months, even YEARS, to your dog’s life and help make that extra time much more enjoyable…and we can help you make the transition as easy as possible.
When your pet is overweight and we start to discuss weight loss for your dog, we realistically expect about a 1% decrease in your dog’s weight per week. We would like you to follow recommendations as closely as possible so that when you bring your dog back 3-4 weeks after the initial program start date, we will see the program working towards those results. If for some reason we are not seeing a weight reduction at that time, we may have to modify the program until the next 3-4 week recheck.
Now that you know that excess weight can cause many health problems and decrease your dog’s quality of life, we applaud you for taking the steps to better health!
Diet and Calories:
Diet plays a huge role in your dog’s health and especially when we are trying to help your dog lose excess weight, we want to make sure that we do not sacrifice proper nutrition. Unless we have discussed another diet option, please review our Diet Recommendations handout and choose your dog’s new diet accordingly.
The next step is to call us immediately and let us know what food you have chosen so that we can calculate the calories that your dog needs on a daily basis and let you know the amounts required at each feeding. By focusing on more nutritious food, less food will be required and we can ultimately have less calories going into your dog so that your dog can expend more calories, which will result in healthy weight loss. Follow the recommended guidelines on our handouts to make your dog’s weight loss program as successful as possible.
• We are suggesting _____________________________ for your dog’s diet, but if for some reason your dog doesn’t like it in the next few days, please give us a call and we can discuss another option.
• Suggested Feeding Amount for optimum weight reduction: Give _______ cup(s)________ times per day.
o If you decide you want to use treats, kongs, etc, please let us help you decide how much kibble to reduce per meal and implement those snacks, so that we can keep on schedule.
Changing Diets
Introducing a new diet should be a transition over 7-10 days. Begin the transition by adding ¼ of the daily portion of the new diet to ¾ of the daily portion of the old diet for 2 days. Then mix ½ of the new diet with ½ of the old diet for 2 days, and then mix ¾ of the new diet to ¼ of the old diet for 2 days. Typically by day 7, the new diet has been implemented fully. If you still have leftover food from the old diet, go ahead and continue using ¼ portions until it is used up.
To increase palatability of the new diet and help out your dog’s joints, we suggest using an Omega Fatty Acid supplement that can be given in the food. Also, feeding smaller, more frequent meals (or implementing snack-times) may help your dog not notice the quantity or availability difference.
Take special note of where your dog chooses to spend most of their time. Many overweight dogs will lay and sleep near the food bowl or outside doorway so that they do not have to move a lot to get what they want. If your dog sleeps near the food dish, move the dish to another room or upstairs so that your dog has to move a bit more to get to it. Be careful, as some dogs will then start lounging in that room or upstairs, so you may have to move it every few days to different locations. Also, if your dog’s bed is by the doorway, move the bed to another location every now and then to encourage more exercise to the doorway.
One challenge that may arise is that your dog “seems hungrier.” This is generally due to the calorie adjustments being made to help your dog reduce caloric intake, but can be redirected appropriately by taking some of the following actions to stimulate your dog mentally as well as physically. Just remember to ONLY feed the recommended amounts per day…if you want to use kibble in a kong for redirection, take away the same amount from the dish. Some successful ways of redirecting your dog’s focus are:
• Buster Balls (Cubes) or Tricky Treat Balls – Available at pet stores or online, etc. These hard plastic balls (cubes) have a maze inside and you can add the kibble to the ball instead of feeding straight out of the bowl. This helps stimulate your dog to work a little for the food (and even perform more exercise if playing the game outside in the yard) by rolling the ball (cube) around. This can also make the meal more exciting by encouraging some of your dog’s natural foraging and problem-solving behaviors.
• Kongs – Stuffing a kong can also make your dog problem-solve while foraging for kibble, especially if a small film of low-fat rice cakes and low-fat cream cheese is applied to the inside walls and openings and then frozen! You can always add low-fat tuna and juice to kibble and then freeze inside the kong as well. There are many healthy, low-calorie recipes that you can use to make dinner-time more enjoyable!
• Food from your hand – Never underestimate the power of simply giving your dog kibbles from your hand. Spending a few minutes here and there giving your dog kibbles (and don’t forget to reduce that amount from the daily feedings) or having your dog perform (or learn new!) behaviors or tricks is even better! You’ll strengthen your human-animal bond even more by the interaction! During walks, have your dog perform doggie push-ups at corners (ask your dog to sit, then down, then sit, then down, then sit, and move forward) or work on attention, tricks, etc, in the house on rainy days.
o Hide and Seek Games are GREAT ways of having your pet move about the house AND learn better Recalls! You can play by having a person hide, then call your dog and give your dog a piece of kibble for coming when called.
• Encourage your dog to increase their water intake by giving them ice cubes and even simply increasing the availability of fresh, cold water.
• Treats can be given (especially if your dog does doggie pushups for them!), but you have to keep in mind the added calories are NOT included in the feeding recommendations we have given you and most likely will only give your dog empty calories. So what treats are good?
o Baby carrots work very well and most dogs like the crunchiness of them.
o Frozen vegetables (cucumbers, peas, green beans) or fresh vegetables (broccoli, celery, asparagus, etc) can be used for same reasons.
o You can make treats out of canned food and kibble…I like to make mini “meatballs” of canned food and kibble. I mixed canned food and kibble together in a bowl, then place small “meatballs” on a sheet of wax paper on a cookie sheet and place the cookie sheet into the freezer. I now have frozen treats for my dog for training!
o We also have Lean Treats and prescription diet treats available that are healthy and low-calorie.
o You can also make some homemade healthy cookies for your dog. Ask us for some recipes!
Suggested Exercise Program:
• Try to walk your dog 2-3 times a day. If you currently walk around the block…try to walk around the block and go a little further each day. Increase distance in smaller amounts at first to help your dog build stamina.
o If your dog is older or already arthritic, talk to a doctor about pain management medication to help your dog move and feel better.
o Other great exercise ideas include: allowing your dog to run around, play fetch or Frisbee, or play tug every day.
• Remember that it is the DISTANCE in your exercise program, not the time allotted. For example, if your dog walks around the block or runs around the block…it’s still only once around the block, although running took less time. But if your goal is 15 minutes of running, you’ll probably go many times around the block during that time and burn a lot more calories.
• Also, please remember CONSISTENT walking at the same, brisk pace (no stopping and sniffing every few feet) is what counts. We want to keep your dog moving. Any warm-up exercises should be done by you before putting your dog’s leash on…dogs were built to go from no effort sleeping to full out strides chasing prey with very little risk of injury.
• Start your walk with a purpose and your dog will follow suit. As the sessions progress, you’ll most likely be finding out that your dog really anticipates these fast-paced “missions”.
Weigh-ins
We like to have our dogs re-weighed every 3-4 weeks to monitor progress and ensure our program goals are being met. Most programs will take 6-8 months to begin to see a marked progress, but remember, every month, for most dogs, we are looking for 3-4% decrease in body weight. Some dogs’ needs may be less, some more, but we can safely achieve the goals for your dog by checking in every month and “tweaking” your dog’s program as needed. The secret to weight lost for your dog is…You, a committed and motivated family member.
If you have any questions regarding a weight loss program for YOUR pet, please feel free to give us a call at 262-308-2523 and we can go from there!
Happy Training!
Weight Management in Dogs…for Life.
Importance of a Healthy Weight:
A healthy weight is essential to your dog to help combat many diseases. As few as 3 extra pounds on your dog (or even 1 pound on a toy breed) can cause added pressure to joints and internal organs, as well as accelerate many diseases, such as: high blood pressure, respiratory and heart disease, osteoarthritis, Type 2 Diabetes, and even some forms of abdominal cancer. Before any diet is started, however, we want to perform a physical examination and rule out any potential health issues first. Hypothyroidism and hyperadrenocorticism (Cushing’s disease) are unfortunately common enemies to weight loss. If there is an underlying physical problem, a diet alone will be unsuccessful and could even prove detrimental. Shedding unnecessary weight can add months, even YEARS, to your dog’s life and help make that extra time much more enjoyable…and we can help you make the transition as easy as possible.
When your pet is overweight and we start to discuss weight loss for your dog, we realistically expect about a 1% decrease in your dog’s weight per week. We would like you to follow recommendations as closely as possible so that when you bring your dog back 3-4 weeks after the initial program start date, we will see the program working towards those results. If for some reason we are not seeing a weight reduction at that time, we may have to modify the program until the next 3-4 week recheck.
Now that you know that excess weight can cause many health problems and decrease your dog’s quality of life, we applaud you for taking the steps to better health!
Diet and Calories:
Diet plays a huge role in your dog’s health and especially when we are trying to help your dog lose excess weight, we want to make sure that we do not sacrifice proper nutrition. Unless we have discussed another diet option, please review our Diet Recommendations handout and choose your dog’s new diet accordingly.
The next step is to call us immediately and let us know what food you have chosen so that we can calculate the calories that your dog needs on a daily basis and let you know the amounts required at each feeding. By focusing on more nutritious food, less food will be required and we can ultimately have less calories going into your dog so that your dog can expend more calories, which will result in healthy weight loss. Follow the recommended guidelines on our handouts to make your dog’s weight loss program as successful as possible.
• We are suggesting _____________________________ for your dog’s diet, but if for some reason your dog doesn’t like it in the next few days, please give us a call and we can discuss another option.
• Suggested Feeding Amount for optimum weight reduction: Give _______ cup(s)________ times per day.
o If you decide you want to use treats, kongs, etc, please let us help you decide how much kibble to reduce per meal and implement those snacks, so that we can keep on schedule.
Changing Diets
Introducing a new diet should be a transition over 7-10 days. Begin the transition by adding ¼ of the daily portion of the new diet to ¾ of the daily portion of the old diet for 2 days. Then mix ½ of the new diet with ½ of the old diet for 2 days, and then mix ¾ of the new diet to ¼ of the old diet for 2 days. Typically by day 7, the new diet has been implemented fully. If you still have leftover food from the old diet, go ahead and continue using ¼ portions until it is used up.
To increase palatability of the new diet and help out your dog’s joints, we suggest using an Omega Fatty Acid supplement that can be given in the food. Also, feeding smaller, more frequent meals (or implementing snack-times) may help your dog not notice the quantity or availability difference.
Take special note of where your dog chooses to spend most of their time. Many overweight dogs will lay and sleep near the food bowl or outside doorway so that they do not have to move a lot to get what they want. If your dog sleeps near the food dish, move the dish to another room or upstairs so that your dog has to move a bit more to get to it. Be careful, as some dogs will then start lounging in that room or upstairs, so you may have to move it every few days to different locations. Also, if your dog’s bed is by the doorway, move the bed to another location every now and then to encourage more exercise to the doorway.
One challenge that may arise is that your dog “seems hungrier.” This is generally due to the calorie adjustments being made to help your dog reduce caloric intake, but can be redirected appropriately by taking some of the following actions to stimulate your dog mentally as well as physically. Just remember to ONLY feed the recommended amounts per day…if you want to use kibble in a kong for redirection, take away the same amount from the dish. Some successful ways of redirecting your dog’s focus are:
• Buster Balls (Cubes) or Tricky Treat Balls – Available at pet stores or online, etc. These hard plastic balls (cubes) have a maze inside and you can add the kibble to the ball instead of feeding straight out of the bowl. This helps stimulate your dog to work a little for the food (and even perform more exercise if playing the game outside in the yard) by rolling the ball (cube) around. This can also make the meal more exciting by encouraging some of your dog’s natural foraging and problem-solving behaviors.
• Kongs – Stuffing a kong can also make your dog problem-solve while foraging for kibble, especially if a small film of low-fat rice cakes and low-fat cream cheese is applied to the inside walls and openings and then frozen! You can always add low-fat tuna and juice to kibble and then freeze inside the kong as well. There are many healthy, low-calorie recipes that you can use to make dinner-time more enjoyable!
• Food from your hand – Never underestimate the power of simply giving your dog kibbles from your hand. Spending a few minutes here and there giving your dog kibbles (and don’t forget to reduce that amount from the daily feedings) or having your dog perform (or learn new!) behaviors or tricks is even better! You’ll strengthen your human-animal bond even more by the interaction! During walks, have your dog perform doggie push-ups at corners (ask your dog to sit, then down, then sit, then down, then sit, and move forward) or work on attention, tricks, etc, in the house on rainy days.
o Hide and Seek Games are GREAT ways of having your pet move about the house AND learn better Recalls! You can play by having a person hide, then call your dog and give your dog a piece of kibble for coming when called.
• Encourage your dog to increase their water intake by giving them ice cubes and even simply increasing the availability of fresh, cold water.
• Treats can be given (especially if your dog does doggie pushups for them!), but you have to keep in mind the added calories are NOT included in the feeding recommendations we have given you and most likely will only give your dog empty calories. So what treats are good?
o Baby carrots work very well and most dogs like the crunchiness of them.
o Frozen vegetables (cucumbers, peas, green beans) or fresh vegetables (broccoli, celery, asparagus, etc) can be used for same reasons.
o You can make treats out of canned food and kibble…I like to make mini “meatballs” of canned food and kibble. I mixed canned food and kibble together in a bowl, then place small “meatballs” on a sheet of wax paper on a cookie sheet and place the cookie sheet into the freezer. I now have frozen treats for my dog for training!
o We also have Lean Treats and prescription diet treats available that are healthy and low-calorie.
o You can also make some homemade healthy cookies for your dog. Ask us for some recipes!
Suggested Exercise Program:
• Try to walk your dog 2-3 times a day. If you currently walk around the block…try to walk around the block and go a little further each day. Increase distance in smaller amounts at first to help your dog build stamina.
o If your dog is older or already arthritic, talk to a doctor about pain management medication to help your dog move and feel better.
o Other great exercise ideas include: allowing your dog to run around, play fetch or Frisbee, or play tug every day.
• Remember that it is the DISTANCE in your exercise program, not the time allotted. For example, if your dog walks around the block or runs around the block…it’s still only once around the block, although running took less time. But if your goal is 15 minutes of running, you’ll probably go many times around the block during that time and burn a lot more calories.
• Also, please remember CONSISTENT walking at the same, brisk pace (no stopping and sniffing every few feet) is what counts. We want to keep your dog moving. Any warm-up exercises should be done by you before putting your dog’s leash on…dogs were built to go from no effort sleeping to full out strides chasing prey with very little risk of injury.
• Start your walk with a purpose and your dog will follow suit. As the sessions progress, you’ll most likely be finding out that your dog really anticipates these fast-paced “missions”.
Weigh-ins
We like to have our dogs re-weighed every 3-4 weeks to monitor progress and ensure our program goals are being met. Most programs will take 6-8 months to begin to see a marked progress, but remember, every month, for most dogs, we are looking for 3-4% decrease in body weight. Some dogs’ needs may be less, some more, but we can safely achieve the goals for your dog by checking in every month and “tweaking” your dog’s program as needed. The secret to weight lost for your dog is…You, a committed and motivated family member.
If you have any questions regarding a weight loss program for YOUR pet, please feel free to give us a call at 262-308-2523 and we can go from there!
Happy Training!
Tuesday, October 9, 2012
Even Small Donations Go A Long Way In Rescue.
With the work in veterinary medicine and rescue that we are proud to participate in, we have been asked many times, "Does $5 or $10 REALLY make a difference?"
Yes. Yes, it does. It REALLY make a difference. If everyone gives $5 or $10 dollars, then we are able to step in on more tips, cases from humane societies, and rescue more fur-kids.
There are so many stories of animal cruelty and abuse that surface...but so many more remain unknown everyday. There are limited resources with every rescue. We function on donations, volunteers, foster homes, and fundraising events.
Whatever the breed, or mix, we implore everyone who even thinks there might be animal cruelty or abuse going on, PLEASE report it to your local humane animal control center so that it can be investigated. Based on ONE tip, an officer can determine whether a rescue should step in or not.
...and neglect comes in many forms. Being left in a car on a hot day, having no shade or water in the backyard, being left in the cold with no shelter on a cold day.
Every life deserves the basic needs that we humans do.
My work with one local rescue in particular, Northcentral Maltese Rescue (http://malteserescue.homestead.com), has shown time and again the victims of animal cruelty and neglect. The biggest problem many of these little fluffs face comes in the form of puppy mills.
But there is one recent success story that I want to share with you.
Because SOMEONE took a stand, rescue was able to step in and help save this special girl, among countless others.
This is Tootsie.
She came in to Belle City Veterinary Hospital, where I work as a Certified Veterinary Technician. No, she is NOT a purebred Maltese, but she needed help and NMR stepped in to do just that. She had a broken jaw (from abuse), had just had puppies (sadly, it is an unknown location of said puppies, but she was lactating)...but is still surprisingly sweet and trusting of the people around her. The jaw surgery alone was going to cost a lot.
To date, she has now had her jaw and spay surgeries, has been vaccinated, and is currently looking for her Furever Home, where she can know the Love that she has never known.
This is why I do what I do. I am so proud to know Mary and be a small part of the NMR.
If you may be interested in Tootsie or anyone else who is currently with NMR, just let us know!
...And anyone who wants to donate to Tootsie's (or the countless others we will continue to save) cause, you can do so at:
http://malteserescue.homestead.com/NewDonationsPage.html
Every little bit goes a very long way...and you ARE able to make a difference today.
Yes. Yes, it does. It REALLY make a difference. If everyone gives $5 or $10 dollars, then we are able to step in on more tips, cases from humane societies, and rescue more fur-kids.
There are so many stories of animal cruelty and abuse that surface...but so many more remain unknown everyday. There are limited resources with every rescue. We function on donations, volunteers, foster homes, and fundraising events.
Whatever the breed, or mix, we implore everyone who even thinks there might be animal cruelty or abuse going on, PLEASE report it to your local humane animal control center so that it can be investigated. Based on ONE tip, an officer can determine whether a rescue should step in or not.
...and neglect comes in many forms. Being left in a car on a hot day, having no shade or water in the backyard, being left in the cold with no shelter on a cold day.
Every life deserves the basic needs that we humans do.
My work with one local rescue in particular, Northcentral Maltese Rescue (http://malteserescue.homestead.com), has shown time and again the victims of animal cruelty and neglect. The biggest problem many of these little fluffs face comes in the form of puppy mills.
But there is one recent success story that I want to share with you.
Because SOMEONE took a stand, rescue was able to step in and help save this special girl, among countless others.
This is Tootsie.
She came in to Belle City Veterinary Hospital, where I work as a Certified Veterinary Technician. No, she is NOT a purebred Maltese, but she needed help and NMR stepped in to do just that. She had a broken jaw (from abuse), had just had puppies (sadly, it is an unknown location of said puppies, but she was lactating)...but is still surprisingly sweet and trusting of the people around her. The jaw surgery alone was going to cost a lot.
To date, she has now had her jaw and spay surgeries, has been vaccinated, and is currently looking for her Furever Home, where she can know the Love that she has never known.
This is why I do what I do. I am so proud to know Mary and be a small part of the NMR.
If you may be interested in Tootsie or anyone else who is currently with NMR, just let us know!
...And anyone who wants to donate to Tootsie's (or the countless others we will continue to save) cause, you can do so at:
http://malteserescue.homestead.com/NewDonationsPage.html
Every little bit goes a very long way...and you ARE able to make a difference today.
Monday, September 10, 2012
Breaking Up A Dog Fight - A Link to A Nice Webinar We Found
"Dogs, for the most part, are good at getting along and avoiding confrontation. But occasionally, as with people, fights can break out between them. Whether they’re meeting for the first time or long-time companions, dogs can frighten, threaten, or just rub one another the wrong way, leading to an escalation of aggression and violence. In this podcast, board-certified veterinary behaviorist Dr. Bonnie Beaver, a professor at Texas A&M College of Veterinary Medicine and past president of the AVMA, talks about dog fights: Why they happen, how to safely break them up, and how to avoid them in the first place."
http://www.avmamedia.org/display.asp?sid=474&NAME=Breaking_Up_a_Dog_Fight
If you are currently having dog-dog aggression, or if you have any other questions or concerns, please give us a call at: 262-308-2523.
Happy Training!
http://www.avmamedia.org/display.asp?sid=474&NAME=Breaking_Up_a_Dog_Fight
If you are currently having dog-dog aggression, or if you have any other questions or concerns, please give us a call at: 262-308-2523.
Happy Training!
Saturday, August 11, 2012
Tracking and Protection
Most of our students start with obedience, want to teach tricks and learn new things. Some of our students want to go further and work on proofing into competition titles and trial environments. The two most common questions we get asked after obedience is well under way is:
What is Schutzhund? The bst answer can be found at: http://www.dvgamerica.com/whatis.html
So, most people know about Obedience. We like to teach you about "naked" obedience and how to form better bonds. But what about the other two "phases" of the sport?
Q. What is Tracking?
A. Tracking is the pursuit of a person or animal by way of following the scent (tracks) that they’ve left behind. Tracking requires the dog to meticulously follow the same scent and not run off in the many directions of other scents. Often this must also be done under less than ideal circumstances with difficult ground cover, bad weather conditions and even an aged track. Initially, you must build your dog’s confidence and teach him to show absolute accuracy and commitment to finding the track. dog must also “indicate” any dropped articles with human scent and point out their location to the handler, usually by way of downing with the article between their front paws. This confidence is usually built with food rewards in footsteps (then faded to none) and a reward at the articles (also faded with time). Despite the challenges, many find tracking to be the most satisfying experience, when only the handler and dog are working together.
Q. Why teach my dog to track?
A. Tracking can be a very rewarding experience for both you and your dog, if coached correctly. You get to nourish your dog’s amazing natural abilities and the feeling of following your dog along the trail is awesome. To get started in tracking, dog and owner - the tracking team - must be aware of goals. It’s important to remember that the dog is in control and a handler’s confidence in their dog’s ability is often the key to success. Goals vary, depending on whether you're training for Schutzhund tracking, AKC tracking, or merely for the fun and joy of free tracking. One thing to remember is that, like everything else, your dog will not learn to track overnight. Tracking takes time and effort, but the rewards are great.
Q. What is Protection Training?
A. Protection training is grossly misunderstood by the general public. A common misconception regarding protection training is associating it with attack training. This is not the case. What protection training does teach your dog is control…your dog already knows how to bite, whether you want to believe it or not. Police dog training is different from Schutzhund and Ringsport training, which is different from actual guard dog or personal protection training. A good protection helper always keeps the dogs in balance between play and seriousness. There's play and tug involved to build drive in younger dogs, and when the dog becomes more serious, there are more obedience requirements.
Q. Why teach my dog Protection?
A. Many people get into protection training for the wrong reasons. A dog who has had formal protection training is predictable, therefore an asset to his owner and to the community. This dog will be able to protect without biting, bite only if necessary and release on command. A well trained, reliable dog can serve for many years as a family protector and companion. Protection Training also has many goals. Generally, we train for Schutzhund or police work. Whatever your desired area, protection sessions must be purchased in passes for the first 10 sessions and do expire if not used right away. This is for you and your dog's safety. Your dog must learn control in many areas...which is why one or two sessions is never acceptable. Protection work takes time and patience, as every dog learns differently and at a different pace.
Want more information? Want to set up an Evaluation or simply get started?
Give us a call!
262-308-2523
What is Schutzhund? The bst answer can be found at: http://www.dvgamerica.com/whatis.html
So, most people know about Obedience. We like to teach you about "naked" obedience and how to form better bonds. But what about the other two "phases" of the sport?
Q. What is Tracking?
A. Tracking is the pursuit of a person or animal by way of following the scent (tracks) that they’ve left behind. Tracking requires the dog to meticulously follow the same scent and not run off in the many directions of other scents. Often this must also be done under less than ideal circumstances with difficult ground cover, bad weather conditions and even an aged track. Initially, you must build your dog’s confidence and teach him to show absolute accuracy and commitment to finding the track. dog must also “indicate” any dropped articles with human scent and point out their location to the handler, usually by way of downing with the article between their front paws. This confidence is usually built with food rewards in footsteps (then faded to none) and a reward at the articles (also faded with time). Despite the challenges, many find tracking to be the most satisfying experience, when only the handler and dog are working together.
Q. Why teach my dog to track?
A. Tracking can be a very rewarding experience for both you and your dog, if coached correctly. You get to nourish your dog’s amazing natural abilities and the feeling of following your dog along the trail is awesome. To get started in tracking, dog and owner - the tracking team - must be aware of goals. It’s important to remember that the dog is in control and a handler’s confidence in their dog’s ability is often the key to success. Goals vary, depending on whether you're training for Schutzhund tracking, AKC tracking, or merely for the fun and joy of free tracking. One thing to remember is that, like everything else, your dog will not learn to track overnight. Tracking takes time and effort, but the rewards are great.
Q. What is Protection Training?
A. Protection training is grossly misunderstood by the general public. A common misconception regarding protection training is associating it with attack training. This is not the case. What protection training does teach your dog is control…your dog already knows how to bite, whether you want to believe it or not. Police dog training is different from Schutzhund and Ringsport training, which is different from actual guard dog or personal protection training. A good protection helper always keeps the dogs in balance between play and seriousness. There's play and tug involved to build drive in younger dogs, and when the dog becomes more serious, there are more obedience requirements.
Q. Why teach my dog Protection?
A. Many people get into protection training for the wrong reasons. A dog who has had formal protection training is predictable, therefore an asset to his owner and to the community. This dog will be able to protect without biting, bite only if necessary and release on command. A well trained, reliable dog can serve for many years as a family protector and companion. Protection Training also has many goals. Generally, we train for Schutzhund or police work. Whatever your desired area, protection sessions must be purchased in passes for the first 10 sessions and do expire if not used right away. This is for you and your dog's safety. Your dog must learn control in many areas...which is why one or two sessions is never acceptable. Protection work takes time and patience, as every dog learns differently and at a different pace.
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262-308-2523
Monday, July 9, 2012
Training Session Guidelines
Awesome Paws Academy
Training Session Guidelines
1) Always keep Safety in mind…for both you and your dog. This means physical as well as mental…set your dog up for success, not failure. If you’re frustrated, DON’T TRAIN! You and your dog will get nothing out of the session!
2) Be a Splitter, Not a Lumper…Set a training goal for each session and stop when you reach it! Do not require a 10 minute down-stay right off the bat…ask for a 30 second one instead first. Move up to a few minutes, then back down to a few easy seconds, then add more time and more distractions, but then make it very easy again. Vary things and keep them fun. If you keep your dog guessing, then you will very soon create lifelong habits of listening.
3) To get ANY behavior, you have to have your pet’s attention first! If your dog is not paying attention to you, you cannot expect to teach them anything! Most owners underestimate the power of teaching their pets attention…and thus forget to teach their pet to maintain eye contact and even forget to reward for appropriate decisions to make eye contact, like a check-in on walks. Teach your pet to pay attention in ALL environments, positions, etc. Practice this constantly…and go “back to basics” in any new situations.
4) Capturing. Never underestimate the value of this method. Eventually, every dog will sit down / lay down / etc…if you’re stuck on something, take a break and just be patient, then capture the “Kodak” moment when your dog finally gives up and sits, downs, etc.
5) Keep your training sessions in balance. Start with food when teaching the basics, but move to life rewards like: playing ball, tug, going for a car ride or walk, being let out of the crate, etc. Find out what motivates your pet and start allowing your dog to EARN it, instead of getting it for free…even if just asking for eye contact at first! Every throw of the ball starts and ends with basic eye contact. Sometimes from in front, sometimes from the left, sometimes from the right, sometimes when I am sitting, sometimes when I am flat on the ground, etc.
6) Resistance to an exercise means that there is not complete understanding. I have yet to meet the dog that deliberately goes out of its way to upset its owners…they are actually usually trying to get you to LAUGH and HAVE FUN with them. Dogs are opportunists - they do what works! Usually, there is a behavioral issue present that is mis-construed as “done on purpose to irritate” from the owner. Of course everything a dog does is on purpose! Everything you do is on purpose too! Whether they are going potty, sitting for food, or playing with a ball. There is ALWAYS a motivator. However, WE have to be the ones to change the behaviors we don’t like into the behaviors we want…so we must change the motivations.
7) Separate your goals from your starting points…You cannot expect a behavior that has not been taught completely. Most owners believe their dog knows sit, just because they sit on cue in the house. Unfortunately, this is quite commonly not the case. The end goal is to have the dog sit everywhere on cue, right? So TEACH the dog that sitting everywhere (house, driveway, pet store, vet clinic, park, on a walk, etc, etc, etc) is a good thing and gets paid. Then, as your dog gets better and better at sitting on cue for pay, then you can start variable reinforcement with the pay and asking for more sits with less rewards.
8) Always Reward your Positives & Ignore the Negatives…Only punish if the behavior is completely unacceptable and you never want it to occur again. A punishment by nature is an action that makes a behavior go away completely. By ignoring a behavior, we don’t reward the behavior AT THAT TIME, but may choose to do so at a later one. A common mistake is punishing a barking dog by yelling or sometimes worse…though I most certainly hope not. In my training programs I rarely punish a barking dog. I simply ignore them if I do not want the barking, i.e. barking in the house to get my attention, then pay for when they choose silence. Or, if I want that barking, i.e. barking at a noise or a strange person, I will tell my dog “Good dog…Thank you. Sit (or Down)”. I do not PAY with a reward but use verbal praise to help the dog understand that they were correct in barking, but now they do not need to, and I gave them another cue to keep busy with. This is called redirection. We are redirecting the behavior we don't want into one we can live with...and if I am not home, my do can bark away!
9) There is no one correct way to train! For every cue, there are many options on how to teach it. Do NOT be fooled by any one trainer that states “This is the way it’s done.” And then cannot help you when a problem arises. Every dog and owner will be different and a good trainer will be flexible and creative.
10) “Go to people for opinions…Go to your pet for answers.” I can tell you how we generally train a cue, but only your pet will say if it’s working. There are many options to each cue, so hang in there…we’ll keep showing you until one works!
11) There are really no limits when training. You can teach your dog to do most anything that you can think up. To date, Guinness reliably knows more than 150 cues…
12) If you find yourself getting frustrated at any point in time, always go “back to basics.” This is a cue or simply a quiet behavior like eye contact where you can end your training session on a yes answer. Try not to end on a sour note, or the next session will only be more difficult. Especially in beginning training, always ending on a yes keeps your pet motivated to do more next time.
13) Also, end your sessions with your pet wanting more. When your pet is most into training, playing, etc, end the session happily and let your pet relax and think about what happened. This is most critical in the beginning phases of training. Sometimes I even recommend crating your pet for a few minutes during the training session if they seem particularly distracted, so they can do just that. No toys, treats, etc, just a simple “Kennel up. Good dog.” Leave the room for a few moments, and then let them back out to try again.
14) Capture vs. Lure vs. Shape. Always start teaching your pet with non-verbal communication. I use food, then move to toys, play, car rides, and other life rewards. Capturing, as defined before, is like taking a picture: Mark (Click or Yes!) when the dog is giving you the “Kodak” moment and reward for the natural behavior. Luring is taking a motivator, like a treat, and luring your pet into a position, like a sit or down. The benefit of lures is that they teach fast, the downside is that you MUST get the lure out of the picture as fast as possible in order to successfully teach your pet a cue, otherwise they require a bribe the rest of their life. Shaping is taking an end behavior and breaking it into steps, like teaching spin or circle. We mark and pay for each movement in the right direction, leading up to the end goal: a full circle. A head turn, a head turn with a shoulder, a half-circle, a full circle, etc.
As with any training program, you must be able to evolve and modify it again and again along the way. These are the basic steps we recommend to help you be successful during each session.
Be creative. Keep reinforcing. Don’t always Punish.
Earn Applause…with Awesome Paws.
262-308-2523
Training Session Guidelines
1) Always keep Safety in mind…for both you and your dog. This means physical as well as mental…set your dog up for success, not failure. If you’re frustrated, DON’T TRAIN! You and your dog will get nothing out of the session!
2) Be a Splitter, Not a Lumper…Set a training goal for each session and stop when you reach it! Do not require a 10 minute down-stay right off the bat…ask for a 30 second one instead first. Move up to a few minutes, then back down to a few easy seconds, then add more time and more distractions, but then make it very easy again. Vary things and keep them fun. If you keep your dog guessing, then you will very soon create lifelong habits of listening.
3) To get ANY behavior, you have to have your pet’s attention first! If your dog is not paying attention to you, you cannot expect to teach them anything! Most owners underestimate the power of teaching their pets attention…and thus forget to teach their pet to maintain eye contact and even forget to reward for appropriate decisions to make eye contact, like a check-in on walks. Teach your pet to pay attention in ALL environments, positions, etc. Practice this constantly…and go “back to basics” in any new situations.
4) Capturing. Never underestimate the value of this method. Eventually, every dog will sit down / lay down / etc…if you’re stuck on something, take a break and just be patient, then capture the “Kodak” moment when your dog finally gives up and sits, downs, etc.
5) Keep your training sessions in balance. Start with food when teaching the basics, but move to life rewards like: playing ball, tug, going for a car ride or walk, being let out of the crate, etc. Find out what motivates your pet and start allowing your dog to EARN it, instead of getting it for free…even if just asking for eye contact at first! Every throw of the ball starts and ends with basic eye contact. Sometimes from in front, sometimes from the left, sometimes from the right, sometimes when I am sitting, sometimes when I am flat on the ground, etc.
6) Resistance to an exercise means that there is not complete understanding. I have yet to meet the dog that deliberately goes out of its way to upset its owners…they are actually usually trying to get you to LAUGH and HAVE FUN with them. Dogs are opportunists - they do what works! Usually, there is a behavioral issue present that is mis-construed as “done on purpose to irritate” from the owner. Of course everything a dog does is on purpose! Everything you do is on purpose too! Whether they are going potty, sitting for food, or playing with a ball. There is ALWAYS a motivator. However, WE have to be the ones to change the behaviors we don’t like into the behaviors we want…so we must change the motivations.
7) Separate your goals from your starting points…You cannot expect a behavior that has not been taught completely. Most owners believe their dog knows sit, just because they sit on cue in the house. Unfortunately, this is quite commonly not the case. The end goal is to have the dog sit everywhere on cue, right? So TEACH the dog that sitting everywhere (house, driveway, pet store, vet clinic, park, on a walk, etc, etc, etc) is a good thing and gets paid. Then, as your dog gets better and better at sitting on cue for pay, then you can start variable reinforcement with the pay and asking for more sits with less rewards.
8) Always Reward your Positives & Ignore the Negatives…Only punish if the behavior is completely unacceptable and you never want it to occur again. A punishment by nature is an action that makes a behavior go away completely. By ignoring a behavior, we don’t reward the behavior AT THAT TIME, but may choose to do so at a later one. A common mistake is punishing a barking dog by yelling or sometimes worse…though I most certainly hope not. In my training programs I rarely punish a barking dog. I simply ignore them if I do not want the barking, i.e. barking in the house to get my attention, then pay for when they choose silence. Or, if I want that barking, i.e. barking at a noise or a strange person, I will tell my dog “Good dog…Thank you. Sit (or Down)”. I do not PAY with a reward but use verbal praise to help the dog understand that they were correct in barking, but now they do not need to, and I gave them another cue to keep busy with. This is called redirection. We are redirecting the behavior we don't want into one we can live with...and if I am not home, my do can bark away!
9) There is no one correct way to train! For every cue, there are many options on how to teach it. Do NOT be fooled by any one trainer that states “This is the way it’s done.” And then cannot help you when a problem arises. Every dog and owner will be different and a good trainer will be flexible and creative.
10) “Go to people for opinions…Go to your pet for answers.” I can tell you how we generally train a cue, but only your pet will say if it’s working. There are many options to each cue, so hang in there…we’ll keep showing you until one works!
11) There are really no limits when training. You can teach your dog to do most anything that you can think up. To date, Guinness reliably knows more than 150 cues…
12) If you find yourself getting frustrated at any point in time, always go “back to basics.” This is a cue or simply a quiet behavior like eye contact where you can end your training session on a yes answer. Try not to end on a sour note, or the next session will only be more difficult. Especially in beginning training, always ending on a yes keeps your pet motivated to do more next time.
13) Also, end your sessions with your pet wanting more. When your pet is most into training, playing, etc, end the session happily and let your pet relax and think about what happened. This is most critical in the beginning phases of training. Sometimes I even recommend crating your pet for a few minutes during the training session if they seem particularly distracted, so they can do just that. No toys, treats, etc, just a simple “Kennel up. Good dog.” Leave the room for a few moments, and then let them back out to try again.
14) Capture vs. Lure vs. Shape. Always start teaching your pet with non-verbal communication. I use food, then move to toys, play, car rides, and other life rewards. Capturing, as defined before, is like taking a picture: Mark (Click or Yes!) when the dog is giving you the “Kodak” moment and reward for the natural behavior. Luring is taking a motivator, like a treat, and luring your pet into a position, like a sit or down. The benefit of lures is that they teach fast, the downside is that you MUST get the lure out of the picture as fast as possible in order to successfully teach your pet a cue, otherwise they require a bribe the rest of their life. Shaping is taking an end behavior and breaking it into steps, like teaching spin or circle. We mark and pay for each movement in the right direction, leading up to the end goal: a full circle. A head turn, a head turn with a shoulder, a half-circle, a full circle, etc.
As with any training program, you must be able to evolve and modify it again and again along the way. These are the basic steps we recommend to help you be successful during each session.
Be creative. Keep reinforcing. Don’t always Punish.
Earn Applause…with Awesome Paws.
262-308-2523
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